Scotland by Twitter

I have just got back from two weeks in Scotland, a trip that took me from the Orkney Islands in the north, to the Isle of Skye and Inveraray on the West Coast and home via Glasgow.

I couldn’t blog from the road because of a lack of time and reliable internet access, but kept connected with the outside world via my account on Twitter. I can update Twitter via text message from my mobile phone so I didn’t need internet access. I do plan to blog, and share photographs, but meanwhile here is a flavour of my trip, collated from my tweets.

There’s a few days where I didn’t tweet at all, including my day touring around Mainland Orkney visiting amazing Stone Age sites with a cool chick from Aberdeen. So you’ll just have to wait for the blog posts!

16 June

• Sunny day in Aberdeen, wandering about looking at art galleries, 18th century buildings and oil rigs in the harbour. Barely slept on sleeper.
• Bonny day for boat trip to Orkney. Hoping to see pod of dolphins at mouth of river north of Aberdeen. Nabbed reclining seat for later.

17 June

• @jemimakiss I’m in Orkney for several days but moving around a bit since accommodation is chockers for the St Magnus Festival. in reply to jemimakiss
• First recorded Caucasian death on Australian soil was an Orcadian. One of Captain Cook’s men, named Sutherland. Died of TB at Botany Bay.
• Discovered a wonderful jewellery shop from local Orcadian artisan called Sheila Fleet. Planning to buy a piece if I can afford to.
• I very rarely send meals back but roast lamb at Shore Hotel in Kirkwall was overdone and tough. Almost £20 and local meat so asked them to redo.
• Waiter has returned. Problem with today’s lamb shipment – normally lovely and tender so maybe hung wrong? Giving me another dish.
• Ordered scallops to replace tough lamb – tender, juicy and delicious. Shore Hotel has redeemed itself!
• Feeling much happier now dinner is over. I was shocked when the bill came with no discount – but they did take drinks off once I complained.

18 June

• @EverywhereTrip Really? Youth hostel in Kirkwall, Orkney last night was £14 plus £1 for towel. It was VERY basic though.
• @EverywhereTrip You didn’t specify major city! It was rate for dorm but actually half of twin room, since school kids had filled the dorms. in reply to EverywhereTrip
• @EverywhereTrip Often private room rates in hostels are comparable to hotel but it’s arguably an advantage to be able to cook or do laundry. in reply to EverywhereTrip
• @EverywhereTrip Kirkwall, Orkney may not be major city but tonight I’m in a single room in a hotel for £55 and that’s more standard.
• @EverywhereTrip Was the €70 rate for a Brussels hostel for an IYHA hostel or just for something billing itself as a hostel?
• @EverywhereTrip I cook for one all the time at home though rarely when I’m on the road. in reply to EverywhereTrip
• It’s a shame I won’t be able to get to North Ronaldsay to see primitive sheep who eat kelp from the beach (they rely on the iron content).
• Apparently the meat from the sheep has quite a distinctive flavour because of the diet of kelp and grass.
• @EverywhereTrip Many B&Bs charge per person as well. in reply to EverywhereTrip
• I’m in lounge of Shore Hotel in Kirkwall to use free wifi. They’re playing Suddenly I See by KT Tunstall for at least the 4th time in 2 days.
• I’m about to have a wrap with Orkney crab meat and salad. #lunchtweet
• Sun shower in Stromness. Huge rainbow arcing across the harbour and Scapa Flow. Two sailing boats with white sails, instead of pots of gold.
• Now at Stromness Hotel waiting for dinner, sipping an Okrney whisky. I prefer brandy but feel obliged to drink whisky in Scotland.
• I am reminded once again that I don’t like whisky. So many people rave about it that I keep giving it another chance. I always regret it.
• @psigrist I’ve just had some Highland Park. I’m not keen. I can’t bring myself to like whisky, sorry! in reply to psigrist
• Planning my Highlands journey for next week. Time’s short so I might have to forego train from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh & Isle of Skye.
• I know B&Bs are often a bit ye olde worlde but my B&B in Stromness takes the cake for chintz. I’ve never seen anything like it!
• Garden looks like mini golf course but with painted concrete birds. Inside: giant stuffed toy dogs, furry wallpaper, plastic house plants.
• This is my third accommodation place in three days. Everywhere on Mainland Orkney is full because of the St Magnus Festival.

22 June

• On the ferry from Burwick in Orkney to John O Groats. It’s a grey old day for the crossing.
• Yesterday brilliant sunshine. I found it’s possible to get bad sunburn in Orkney. Who knew?
• Orkney Photographic in Kirkwall charged £19 to process 10 films on to CD – bargain!
• @mikeachim I am on the Orkney bus as per your suggestion, heading south to Inverness. Sadly it’s grey and rainy.
• Passing through North Coast of Scotland near Wick. Looks far more desolate and isolated than Orkney.
• On bus south to Inverness, passing windswept moors and abandoned crofts.
• This is scenic stretch of northern Scottish coast – at least so I’m told. Could cut fog with knife.
• Fog has lifted. Landscape slowly becoming more mountainous are we head towards the Highlands.
• I liked Orkney but it’s nice to see trees again.

23 June

• Hot and sunny in the Scottish Highlands. Ruins of Urquhart Castle against sparkling blue of Loch Ness.
• Purple rhododendrons line railway track. Beyond is silver-blue mirror-clear sea loch.
• Further still, on horizon, are dramatic blue craggy mountains. It could even be the hills of Skye.
• Made it to Kyle of Lochalsh, now onward to Skye.
• I made it to Skye! It’s quite close to mainland. There’s a bridge these days – not even a very long one.
• I am now at mercy of local bus timetables. Will I make it to hostel on other side of the island or change my plans?
• Rolling my eyes at tourist brochure that describes Scotland as ‘a land shaped by geology’. As opposed to?

24 June

• Another glorious day in Skye. I’m going for a bike ride and hill walk.
• #lunchtweet Hummus & rocket sandwich. Location – top of Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye. Beautiful day.
• 32C (about 94F) on Skye today. Lovely.
• Out for six hours today, cycling and hill walking. I’ve earned a slap-up meal in one of the seafood restaurants on the harbour.
• Moving on tomorrow afternoon and taking West Highlands railway, famed for scenery, south.
• Still have morning in Skye – what to do? Castles, boat trip, horse riding?
• It’s nice to be physically tired. I should have a good night’s sleep as long as my hostel dorm mates don’t snore like in Inverness.
• I have been checking email on my mobile because internet is hard to find. Dreading the bill.
• Vote on whether I should a) go on wildlife boat trip b) go on mini bus tour to scenic northern Skye or c) visit Armadale Castle.

25 June

• Staying in hostel has many advantages for solo travellers on a budget. One drawback – sometimes you share with a snorer.
• The vote is is overwhelmingly in favour of boat trip so I’ll see if I can do that!
• Castles are fab but they are plentiful in Scotland. I’m told the Armadale one is standard fare – it just happens so be by ferry terminal.
• You guys were too harsh on the bus tour – it’s just a small mini bus and I don’t have my own wheels.
• I won’t make outer Hebrides this trip. I need to head south to Inveraray to visit family, then London Sunday.
• I must be shedding years on this trip. People keep asking if I’m studying & expressing surprise that I’m married. In general, not just in hostel.
• Ok I’m booked on a 2 hour boat trip this morning. Wrong time of year for puffins tough.
• On the Brigadoon, heading out to the Sound in hope of seeing sea eagles.
• Sea is sparkling, sky is blue, breeze is fresh. Ah Skye.
• Boat trip was right call. Already seen pod of common dolphins feeding on mackerel.
• Beautiful sea eagle came down to feed. Gorgeous with out-stretched wings.
• Glad to see eagle but misgivings about the fact the skippers feed them. Allowed but restricted.
• Sitting in Portree Square eating sweet Skye strawberries, waiting for bus.
• Fellow bus passenger reading Scottish Daily Mail. Headline – Migrant criminals bringing terror to Scotland. Migrants from England perhaps?
• Taking a piece of Skye home – local gooseberry curd and rhubarb, raisin & garlic chutney.
• Once I get to Armadale I’ve 4 mins to transfer to ferry. Timetable says connecting service but different company. Hope it waits.
• Phew made it. Was pretty sure they’d wait but not much room for error.
• Safety announcement in English and Scots Gaelic. They aren’t playing Skye Boat Song though.
• Mallaig has the feel of an outpost town, built around ferry and fishing. Waiting for train in a tea room with garden courtyard.
• Getting SMS spam about accident compensation. How annoying.
• The West Highlands Railway is completely stunning. Taking lots of video.
• Seeing ocean, hills, lochs and forest.
• Countryside opened up into moors – looks like sheep country without the sheep.
• At aunt & uncle’s place in Argyll for few nights. Crescent moon above ridge, pine marten hunting in garden.

26 June

• Today’s agenda – walk & swim with cousin, chanterel hunting with aunt, backgammon with uncle.
• Went for a hill walk instead. On peak overlooking Loch Fyne, wind whipping grass and bog cotton.
• Pausing while my cousin cleans out her boots – she sank knee deep in bog!
• Good walk for wildlife. Saw 5 red deer with fawns. Plus a frog and beetles. Gorgeous wild flowers too.
• Walked a bit further over the hill and found freshwater high loch ringed with grey stone and peat bog.

27 June

• Going mushroom hunting before lunch. Hope to find chanterels but it might be too early in season.
• Meagre pickings on mushroom hunt – found about 4 chanterels. Need rain.

28 June

• Caught up with friend in Glasgow, now catching train back south. powerpoints on Virgin train, though wifi costs.
• Been working on laptop but now feel green around gills from rocking train.
• Rolling green hills and patchwork fields out window. English landscape much different to Scottish.
• is browsing Twitter on the mobile web, sitting on London-bound train at Lancaster station.
• I’ve had gorgeous sunshine in Scotland but train seems to heading south into deep cloud.
• Britain is a small island and it’s well connected by rail. Why would anyone bother to fly within UK?
• I can’t wait to get my photos from Scotland developed. It feels so weird to be using film again.
• Signalling faults on line between Watford Junction and London Euston. Grrr. Bored and hungry.